This post was supposed to have started with the dateline: Locorotondo, Puglia, Italy, because that is where I planned to be this week. Instead, I’m sitting at home in the Near North Valley. I’ll do my best to write about what we planned on eating and seeing while taking a slow road trip through Southern Italy.

Much of what we consider to be “Italian” food are dishes that came from Southern Italy. Pizza was invented in Naples, Campania is the country’s breadbasket and pasta likely is from here, in addition to all of the other Southern charms: eggplant parmesan and insalata caprese.

The poorest region in the country, it was ruled by several cultures who left their mark on the cuisine of Puglia,Basilicata and Campania (the three regions we planned to visit). The Greeks and the Arabs probably had the most impact, as did the system of latifundium (basically a feudal system of large farms owned by absentee landlords and worked by slaves or indentured servants).

In Puglia the Greeks left distinctive architecture (trulli) and the pillars of Italian food: oil, wine and grains. The Arabs brought eggplants, bitter oranges and refined cane sugar.

From “Tasting Italy: A Culinary Journey” by National Geographic & America’s Test Kitchen

After flying into Bari from Rome, we were going to be based in a trulli house in Locorontondo, making side trips to some of the seaside and mountain towns in Puglia and Basilicata, such as Lecce and Taranto. We would expect meals starting with soppressata or carpaccio, pastas with bitter greens and pork, fresh seafood from the Adriatic and the Gulf of Taranto or pork for small mountain farms. We would wash it down with full-bodied reds such as Primitivo or Aglianico or crisp, chilled Greco di Tufo and, of course, finishing our meals with local Amari. I was looking forward to trying out some of the region’s rosé, since they are hard to find in ABQ.

I asked Amy Haas, who created the wine list at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five about her favorite Southern Italian wines:

The Sicilian Nero d’Avola at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

“When I think about southern Italy, my heart always goes to Sicily. Although the region doesn't host the popular grapes everyone loves, it does host in my opinion, some of the best. Sicilian wines are not on center stage and don't garner a huge demand in the U.S. This is just fine with me as I've never been one for trends and I cringe at the thought of popularity as any real indicator of quality. Anyway, back to Sicily and it's fairly unknown grapes. I will highlight two here, both red and both incredibly unique:

Nerello Mascalese - beautiful red berries and bright acidity fall into a surprisingly tannic backbone. The balance of fruit and acid with a tannic punch mid palate makes this wine incredibly versatile when pairing with food as well as incredibly complex on it's own. To me, it's like Pinot Noir and Nebbiolo had a really awesome baby.

Nero d'Avola- dark fruits co-exist seamlessly with noticeable acidity and sweet, approachable tannins. Although most would describe it as a delicious full bodied red on its own, once it’s blended with Frappato (a light, floral grape also from Sicily) the result is something unparalleled on the palate. I don't have a baby making reference here.

There's just something about Sicily that makes the heart (and palate) sing. The song isn't a popular one, it's more like a B side masterpiece nobody knows about yet. Shhhhh, don't tell.”

An Aglianico from Campania, a Primitivo from Puglia and a white from Campania; all available at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five.

The ring-shaped cracker that is usually flavored with olive oil and rosemary, taralli, are found everywhere (and on the Charcuterie Boards at M’tucci’s Moderno and M’tucci’s Italian). I was planning on seeking out some of the more unusual flavors I have read about. Orrechiette is the favorite pasta in the area, sauced in different ways, but quite often with bitter greens called rapini here, but known as rapa in Puglia. Luckily, I have some in my garden nearly ready to pick. I’ll cook it with Italian sausage, a bit of white wine, garlic and a good dose of red pepper flakes. I suppose it will help me with my wanderlust for Italy.

Cima di Rapa or Rapini. Also known as turnip tops. A bitter green that goes well with Italian sausage. — *Cima di Rapa* or *Rapini.* Also known as turnip tops. A bitter green that goes well with Italian sausage.

The sea on either side of the Salento Peninsula (the heel of the boot) is rich with shellfish, notably mussels. In many places they are packed with seasoned bread crumbs and deep fried. We planned to go to Otranto to find the version stuffed with a mixture of tuna, eggs, bread crumbs and pecorino and simmered in a tomato broth. Perhaps we would have made it to the west side of the peninsula for cozze all tarantina at the port/harbor town of Taranto, known for their mussels. So tasty, they are usually simmered in a simple broth of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, chile flakes and white wine.

Chef Shawn at M’tucci’s has created his own take on mussels by simmering them in a bourbon/jalapeño broth. Good enough to make me forget about Puglia’s version. However, the drive around the coast along the boot heel will have to wait.

Fresh Mussels for M’tucci’s Twenty-Five’s Bourbon Braised Mussels - only available Happy Hour M-F 3:00-6:00.

Continuing into Basilicata, we were going to visit Matera, which has become a tourist mecca for food and the ancient cave dwellings and frescoes. I wanted to visit to try the huge sourdough loaves called Pane di Matera. Famous, yes, but better than M’tucci’s??

After returning our car at the airport in Bari, we were going to zip across Italy to Naples (yes, to visit Pompeii), primarily to eat pizza - for three days!! It’s quite possible we would not have it for breakfast, since I’ve heard the cappuccino is stellar in Naples. We had three pizza places picked out, known for simple, high quality ingredients. Someday. If you get there before me, try out Sorbillo, Pizza La Notizia or Starita.

For now, I can eat the best pizza available outside of Italy at M’tucci’s. Quality ingredients and the best sourdough crust possible.

Weekend Specials

M’tucci’s Italian

Goat Cheese Ravioli - Truffle, Wild Mushroom, Crispy House Pancetta, Roasted Butternut Squash, Carmelized Onion, Rappini, Light Porcini Cream Sauce $23

Hand Cut 24oz Porterhouse - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $37

Pan-Seared Ono - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Artichokes, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Cream Sauce $26

Braise - Slow Braised Harris Ranch Angus Beef, Three Cheese Spinach Artichoke Cream Sauce, House Pappardelle Pasta $25

Gelato: Berry Vanilla Shrub

Sorbetto: Mango

Sunday Only: Full Rack of Baby Back Ribs, Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Spinach and House BBQ Sauce for $27

M’tucci’s Moderno

24 oz Hand-Cut NY Strip - Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Italian Salsa Verde $31

Pan-Seared Mahi Mahi - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Roasted Artichokes, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Cream Sauce, Capers, Prosciutto Powder $26

House Pesto Ravioli - Grape Tomatoes, Shallots, Roasted Artichoke, Pesto Cream Sauce $19

Gelato: Tiramisu

Sorbetto: Raspberry Lemon

Sunday Only: House Made Lasagna with Herbed Ricotta, Five Pork Bolognese and Roasted Tomato Marinara. $16 (it’s large)

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

Pan-Seared Fresh Ono - Grilled Escarole, Prosciutto Powder, Garlic Whipped Potatoes, Seared Artichokes, Topped with Prosciutto Powder, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $24

Gelatos: Dark Chocolate & Strawberry Cheesecake

Sorbetto: Raspberry Lemon

Tuesday, October 27 - 4:00

Halloween Costumes & ABQ Bartender Competition/Fundraiser

10% total restaurant sales for the day + proceeds from competition donated to CLN Kids

Call 505-554-2660 to reserve a 4 top VIP Table for $200 - includes prime seating for the Bartender Competition, 2 rounds Charcuterie/Cicchetti & specialty cocktail

10 local bartenders competing for 1st, 2nd and 3rd place - knock out style 3 rounds

We are auctioning drinks from competition to VIP tables

Door prices for best costume.