Amaro - Italy's Digestivo
/While we at M’tucci’s take pride in our many house made products and creative takes on Italian classic dishes (I had the Duck Duck at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five last night and it was incredible), we also consider it our mission to introduce real Italian recipes and products to our guests. One of these is the bittersweet Italian liquor, amaro, which means bitter in Italian.
The labels are as varied as the flavors!
A centuries-old beverage, amaro began as a healing tonic used for medicinal purposes. While there are now an astounding number of styles and makers of amaro, nearly all of them begin with a neutral spirit or wine that is macerated with bitter barks, seeds, spices, flowers, vegetables, herbs and citrus peels, then balanced with sugar. Some of the bittering agents include gentian root, angelica root, wormwood and cinchona bark. You might find anise, cardoon, clove, rhubarb, cardamom, licorice and juniper among the herbal profiles. Some amari (plural of amaro) are barrel-aged for complexity. The recipes are all closely guarded secrets among the family producers, some of whom have been producing one of Italy’s favorite beverages for more than four generations.
The flavor profiles of amari are definitely local. Amari made in the North rely more on the herbs and flowers available in the mountains, while Southern Amari might use more citrus peels.
Humans are born with an aversion to bitter flavors, since we were genetically programmed to treat a bitter flavor as toxic, or even poisonous. Many of us (Americans) have more of a palate for sweet, sour and salty - even umami. So, a little palate education is necessary to appreciate bitter flavors, and we are acquiring that appreciation by drinking IPAs, cocktails with tonic water, and even coffee and tea. Italians embrace bitter foods early in their lives (greens, chocolate, espresso) and consequently have a long history with bitter flavors and especially with amari.
Amari were initially created by medieval friars and monks for their health benefits, which includes stimulating the appetite and aiding in digestion. The bitter flavors trigger saliva and gastric juices, activating the digestive system.
Author Jason Tesauro writing in The New York Times said, “After a decadent meal, amaro is like Harvey Keitel in Pulp Fiction. It’s the cleaner that wipes away any evidence that you overdid it.”
To an Italian an Amari is consumed after dinner, which would leave Aperol, Campari and other aperitivos off of the list. Other Italians believe that if it is bitter, it is an amaro regardless if it is a aperitivo or digestivo. Is vermouth an amaro? Technically it’s not, but you would have to consider them bitter cousins, vermouth is usually the lower alcohol cousin.
A negroni, the classic Italian cocktail made with Campari.
We offer a selection of Italian amari (and a couple from France). Since there are no rules governing the ingredients of amari, sampling and the advice of a knowledgeable bartender are the keys to understanding the wonderful world of amari. The variety and complexity of this beverage is part of the charm, but it can be a daunting task to find the one you like. We recommend tasting without ice to get an idea of what you like. A starting point is to understand the classifications of amari: Aperitivo, Light, Medium and Dense. Maybe you start with Light? These categories come from the indispensable cocktail book, Cocktail Codex by Death & Co.
Aperitivo: Campari, Aperol, Capelletti & Suze
Light: Meletti, Montenegro & Nonino Quintessentia
Medium: Averna, CioCiaro & Bigallet China-China, Cynar & Ramazotti
Dense: Fernet-Branca & Luxardo Amaro Abano
Amari are used in several different cocktails, but can also be used as substitutes in some classics. When Trey Godwin was creating the cocktail list for brunch at M’tucci’s Italian, he was experimenting with different spirits & amari in the coffee drink. Instead of using an orange or lemon peel, and sugar, he added Campari for the combination of bitter and sweet and then added the French amaro, China China, which adds a citrus flavor to the Italian Iced Coffee.
Italian Iced Coffee
Partner/Beverage Manager Austin Leard said you could use an amaro in place of sweet vermouth when making a Manhattan or a Boulevardier. When making the Manhattan, omit the bitters and experiment with your amaro/rye whiskey proportions. Instead of using the traditional bourbon, Campari & Carpano Antica Sweet Vermouth for the Boulevardier (cousin to the Negroni), try a combination of Rye, Cappelletti (an aperitivo amaro) and Punt e Mes (an Italian Vermouth).
Writer Brad Thomas Parsons interviewed several Italian families for his book “Amaro: The Spirited World of Bittersweet”. When discussing how to consume amaro, Leonardo Vena from the Amaro Lucano family said that there are disagreements even within his own family, “I like it chilled - either from a cold bottle or served with one ice cube. My father drinks it neat and my grandfather likes it warm with an orange zest.”
Ask one of our bartenders which amaro you should try during your next visit. After tasting a few styles of amari at any M’tucci’s, pick up a bottle at Jubilation or Total Wine (usually 6-10 different labels). Try them at home in a variety of ways (cold, neat, etc.), since there is no “one way” to enjoy amaro.
Nonino is considered a “gateway” amaro, since it has softer bittersweet profile and a grappa base. It’s a good introduction to amaro, but it is one of the more expensive bottles.
Weekend Specials
M’tucci’s Italian
Hand Cut 24oz Porterhouse - Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $37
Pan-Seared Rockfish - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Artichoke, Sauteéd Arugula, Lemon Caper Sauce $21
Ravioli - Pesto Ricotta, Sautéed Pink Shrimp, Roasted Butternut Squash, Caramelized Onion, Sun-Fried Tomato, Arugula, Light Lemon Cream Sauce $23
Gelato: Dark Chocolate
Sorbetto: Strawberry, Pineapple
Sunday Only: Full Rack of Baby Back Ribs, Salt Water Potatoes, Sautéed Spinach and House BBQ Sauce for $27
M’tucci’s Moderno
6 oz Hand Cut Filet Mignon - Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Italian Salsa Verde $26
Pan-Seared Yellowtail - Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Roasted Artichokes, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Cream Sauce, Capers, Prosciutto Powder $23
Beef Tortellini - Beef Tips, Cajun Seasoning, Diced Tomatoes, Green Onion, Gorgonzola Cheese $21
Gelato: Lemongrass
Sorbetto: Raspberry Lemon
Sunday Only: House Made Lasagna with Herbed Ricotta, Five Pork Bolognese and Roasted Tomato Marinara. $16 (it’s large)
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five
Pan-Seared Rockfish - Grilled Escarole, Prosciutto Powder, Garlic Whipped Potatoes, Seared Artichokes, Topped with Prosciutto Powder, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $23
24 oz Hand Cut Porterhouse - Grilled Asparagus, Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Smoked Blackberry Bone Marrow Butter $37
Gelatos: Lemongrass
Sorbetto: Mango
Shrub of the Month
In addition to our regular flavors, we are going to introduce a new seasonal flavor that will be available for that month. You will be able to buy a bottle or get a special cocktail at all three locations. This month we are featuring the Roasted Apple Spice Shrub. If you would like to buy a bottle and make a cocktail at home, here is the recipe:
1/2 oz Lemon
1/2 oz Simple Syrup
1/2 oz Apple Liqueur
1 oz Roasted Apple Spice Shrub
1.5 oz Aged Apple Brandy
Holiday Pies
Pumpkin with Pumpkin Seed Brittle & Ginger Vanilla Chantilly Cream - $17
Apple with Oat Almond Streusel $15
Bourbon Pecan Pie with Vanilla Chantilly Cream $18
The toppings will come packaged separately, so you can add them when you are ready for dessert (or breakfast). Please call the restaurant closest to you to place your order and to arrange a pick up time. Add a pint of House Made Salted Caramel Gelato for only $7.
Catering
View our Fall/Holiday catering menu by clicking here. Call Taña to arrange for your holiday lunch or small gathering. 505-350-0019.
Thanks for reading. See you next Friday, Ciao!
