Italian Cooking

In the introduction of her indispensable book “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking” Marcella Hazan writes: “Ask an Italian about Italian Cooking and, depending on whom you approach, you will be told about Bolognese, Venetian, Roman, Milanese cooking or Tuscan, Piedmontese, Sicilian, Neapolitan. But Italian cooking? It would seem no single cuisine answers to that name. The cooking of Italy is really the cooking of regions that long antedate the Italian nation, regions that until 1861 were part of sovereign and usually hostile states, sharing few cultural traditions and no common spoken language - it was not until after World War II that Italian began to be the everyday language of a substantial part of the population - and practicing entirely distinct styles of cooking.”

I’m fortunate to be part of the M’tucci’s Family where I not only get to eat Italian food on a regular basis, but I can observe and experience the cooking techniques and styles of our talented chefs. Before M’tucci’s, I learned most of my Italian cooking skills from cookbooks. I still rely on those cookbooks today.

A few years ago, “Tasting Italy” by National Geographic & America’s Test Kitchen, was a surprise Christmas gift. Organized by region, the large book is filled with a vast amount of background information on each region’s history of eating and cooking, and it has some terrific recipes. I love cooking the Porchetta, pork shoulder rubbed with olive oil, garlic and rosemary. My favorite dish is from the chapter on Puglia, Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Sausage. We grow broccoli rabe, or rapini, in our garden, or find it at Sprouts or Whole Foods when the garden is fallow. The blending of rich flavors of the pork sausage and the bitter greens is a flavorful, easy pasta dish to make at home.

For more complex dishes, I love the Five Pork Bolognese at M’tucci’s Italian, the Artichoke Pesto Ravioli at M’tucci’s Moderno and the Prosciutto Cotto and Five Cheese Tortolloni at M’tucci’s Twenty-Five - all dishes that I am not going to make at home!

Another terrific book for your kitchen library is “Red, White & Greens” by Faith Willinger. It’s all about vegetables and how they are cooked in the Italian style. When our zucchini and squash start producing, we pick the male flowers and stuff them with ricotta, parmesan, and Italian parsley and simmer them in a garlic/tomato broth.

But the book that I use the most is Marcella Hazan’s. She combined and updated the recipes from her first two books for the “Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking”, published in 1992. I have had it since it was published and it’s getting a bit worn out.

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There is a wealth of information on Italian ingredients and techniques, and, of course, some great recipes, which are perfect for the beginning or experienced cook. One of my favorites is an amazingly simple roast chicken with lemons. Start with an organic free-range chicken and follow her techniques and timing, and you’ll be amazed at the flavors from this simple dish - just salt, pepper and lemons. There are valuable guidelines for making Pesto and Risotto. She suggests freezing the Pesto sauce before adding the cheese, and I follow her instructions every year when I harvest our basil. We enjoy fresh-tasting pesto throughout the year - not just during the summer. While I love making these at home, making risotto is time consuming. I’m always impressed with the richness of the Seafood Risotto at M’tucci’s Italian. It doesn’t hurt that they insist on buying the most expensive Italian rice, Carnaroli.

Seafood Risotto at M’tucci’s Italian

Seafood Risotto at M’tucci’s Italian

If you were to only have one Italian cookbook, this should be it. Forget Lidia, Giada and all the others. Marcella is the true Goddess of Italian cuisine. Try the Braised Pork Chops with Tomatoes, Cream and Porcini Mushrooms; the Pasta e Fagioli; or the Pasta Amatriciana. Her comments for that pasta dish will give you an idea of her approach to cooking: “When making Amatriciana sauce, some cooks add white wine before putting in the tomatoes; I find the result too acidic, but you may want to try it.”

While “Red, White & Greens” is devoted to Italian vegetables, Marcella is no slouch in this department either. One dish that you will probably never find on a restaurant menu (since it takes a long time to cook) is her Braised Carrots with Parmesan Cheese.

“I know of no other preparation in the Italian repertory, or in other cuisines for that matter, more successful than this one in freeing the rich flavor locked inside the carrot,” she writes. I agree.

Marcella Hazan and M’tucci’s share the same philosophy when it comes to Italian food: use the best ingredients and prepare the dish to bring out the flavors of those ingredients. You can experience those flavors paired with M’tucci’s Private Label Wines in a special 3-Course Prix Fixe Dinner this weekend. You only have three more days to enjoy this meal, so don’t let the opportunity pass. It’s available all day at all three M’tucci’s locations.

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The dessert course for the M’tucci’s Private Label Pairing.

The dessert course for the M’tucci’s Private Label Pairing.


Weekend Specials

M’tucci’s Italian

24 oz Hand Cut Porterhouse: Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Balsamic Reduction $38

Pan-Seared Mahi Mahi - Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Artichokes, Sautéed Arugula, Lemon Caper Sauce $29

M’tucci’s Braised Sackett Farm Pork Ricotta filled Ravioli: , Sautéed Mushrooms, Caramelized Onion, Roasted Red Bell Pepper, Vodka Cream Sauce $23

Weekend Cocktail - Dreaming In Italy: Beefeater Gin, House Made Limoncello, Orgeat, Half & Half and Cappelltti Aperitivo

Sunday Only: Half Rack of Smoked Baby Back Ribs, Salt Water Potatoes, House Made Cole Slaw and House BBQ Sauce for $18

M’tucci’s Moderno

12 oz. Certified Black Angus NY Strip: Crispy Saltwater Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Salsa Verde $27

Pan-Seared Rockfish: Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Roasted Artichokes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce, Prosciutto Powder $21

M’tucci’s Twenty-Five

21 oz T-Bone or 24 oz Porterhouse: Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Grilled Broccolini, Smoked Blackberry Bone Marrow Butter $32 or $38

7 oz. Pan-Seared Ling Cod: Seared Artichokes, Grilled Escarole, Garlic Whipped Potatoes, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $23

Toasted House Made Rigatoni with Sun-Dried Tomato, Spinach, Cold Smoked Beef Tips, Pecorino Cream Sauce Garnished with Gorgonzola $19

Gelato: Chocolate Cake

Sorbetto: Cherry Limoncello


Mother’s Day

We still have some space for Mom for Mother’s Day. Call soon.

M’tucci’s Moderno - Brunch Menu - Open at 10:00 (but no Mimosas until 11:00)


M’tucci’s Catering

With the promise of fewer dining and gathering restrictions in the next few months, now is the time to reserve one of our private dining rooms, or to plan for your wedding reception. Our Catering Manager, Taña Martinez, is ready to help you with all of your catering and event needs. Call her at 505-350-0019 or email: [email protected]


Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!