Two Perfect Weeks in Tuscany
/If last week’s La Gazzetta inspired you to visit Tuscany and the Chianti region, here are some tips on how to do it right. September is a great month for travel and October is even better with cooler weather, wine and olive harvests and festivals throughout the region.
Begin your trip by flying into Rome, taking the Leonardo Express train to Rome’s Termini station, then booking the fast train to Florence. Book online with Trenitalia and choose the Freccia option for fast train (about two hours). If you have an hour or so at Termini, there is a large food court on the second level and next door to the station.
Day 1-3: Find an Airbnb or nice hotel in central Florence. Make sure to book your visit to the Uffizi gallery well in advance. Visit the Duomo, which dominates the main piazza, cross the Arno River on the Ponte Vecchio, and escape the crowds by visiting restaurants near Piazza San Spirito. Rent a bike or take a taxi to Piazzale Michelangiolo to watch sunrise over the city. Take an easy bus to the hill town of Fiesole to enjoy the restaurants and views looking over the entire city and the Arno Valley. Do make reservations at Buca Mario, one of the oldest restaurants in the city or try the bistecca alla Fiorentina at Regina Bistecca. The Central Market is the place for olive oils, dried porcini and quick bites for lunch.
Days 4 & 5: Take a taxi or bus to the airport to pick up a rental car. Driving in Italy is fun and easy, so don’t hesitate to get a car to visit hill towns not accessible by train. Book two nights in one of Chianti’s hill towns such as Panzano, Greve in Chianti or Castellini in Chianti. There are an overwhelming number of wineries, restaurants and cooking classes available. Near Castellini in Chianti is Azienda Agricola Casamonti, a farm (that breeds Cinta Sinese free-range pigs) and winery. They offer short tours and a large lunch. Antinori Winery with its modern visitors center, tasting room, gift shop and restaurant is a popular destination. TV celebrity chef Dario Cecchini holds forth nearly every day at his butcher shop/restaurant complex in the hill town of Panzano. There are three different restaurants from which to choose, based on your desired level of meat consumption.
Days 6 & 7: Drive to Siena for two nights. Explore the city with the grand Piazza del Campo, the home to the exciting Palio horse races and the majestic Duomo. The best views are gained by climbing the Torre del Mangia. Study the Google maps well, since there is little parking available in the center of the ancient city. You’ll park your car in lots that are located in the periphery, so book a room somewhat close to a parking lot.
Days 8 & 9: Drive west from Siena, stopping to see the towers of San Gimignano. Try to get there early to beat squadrons of buses and their passengers that descend upon the medieval city. On the main piazza here is a local gelato shop, Gelateria Dondoli, whose proprietor has won the world gelato competition twice - the perfect breakfast!
Continue on the town of Bolgheri in the wine growing region of Coastal Tuscany. The town, surrounded by vineyards, is walkable with several good restaurants and spots to taste the famed Super Tuscans. Visit the hill towns of Bibbona and Castagneto and Marina di Castagneto -Donoratico and San Vincenzo for views of the Tyrrehian Sea. Any of these towns would be good for base for two nights.
Days 10 & 11: Drive east through the countryside to my favorite Tuscan hill town, Montalcino. This town has it all, great restaurants, stunning views of the surrounding vineyards and lots of places to enjoy one of Italy’s finest wines, Brunello di Montalcino. La Fortezza is good for sampling many Brunellos and its less costly cousin, Rosso di Montalcino. Like Siena, you will have to park in one of the parking lots that surround the small town, so be prepared for a little walking to your hotel. Don’t make the same mistake I did and arrive on a Saturday without restaurant reservations. The small town is a popular weekend destination for Italians and travelers. The same goes for all of the restaurants that I have mentioned - make reservations.
Days 12 & 13: Here are two options, depending on your mood. If you have had enough of small towns and wine country and want some big city life, then return the car to Florence and return to Rome on the train. Two nights in a hotel/Airbnb near the Campo di Fiore or Piazza Navona could be the perfect end to your Tuscan travels. Or you could choose to continue east to the hill town of Cortona, made famous as the setting for the book and move, “Under the Tuscan Sun” by Frances Mayes. It has the same charms as Montalcino, with views that take in Umbria and Lake Trasimeno.
Last Day: Instead of sleeping in a disappointing hotel near Termini in Rome the night before your flight, consider staying in the town right by the airport. However, don’t stay at a drab chain hotel at the airport, instead go to the port city of Fiumicino, which has two terrific (according to the writer, Frances Mayes) hotels,. The Seccy and Hotel QC Terme Roma are both within walking distance of good restaurants and they both are only 10 minutes from the airport. Buon Viaggio!
September and October Festivals in Tuscany
Expo Chianti Classico of Greve, which gathers producers from all over the Chianti Classico territory, a chance to sample Chiantis in Chianti. It takes place on the second weekend of September, in the splendid square of Greve in Chianti with tastings, art exhibitions, and concerts. Which means it begins today, so unless you are already there, you’ll have to plan for next year.
Also for next year is the Fiera del Cacio Pienza, the fair that celebrates Tuscan pecorino and is held the first Sunday in September.
Castelnuovo Berardenga celebrates grapes with the Festa dell'uva in Vagliagli.
At the end of October, the 6 municipalities of Chianti adhere to the "Camminata Tra gli Olivi", in collaboration with the Associazione Città dell'Olio: a day dedicated to the discovery of the "green gold" at the time of the olive harvest and pressing.
Stuffed Squash Blossom is the First Course for the Pairing Dinner with Ex Novo
Albuquerque Journal: Friday, September 9, 2022
Weekend Specials
M’tucci’s Italian
Ravioli - Pesto Ricotta Ravioli: Mushrooms, Spicy Capicola, Roasted Cherry Tomatoes, Green Chile, Pesto Cream Sauce, Parmesan & micro Greens $25
12 oz Veal Chop: Crispy Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Grilled Lemon, Balsamic Reduction $37
Pan-Seared Swordfish: Creamy Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Grilled Artichokes, Lemon Caper Sauce $33
Braise - Lamb, Gorgonzola Creamy Polenta, Haricot Vert $31
Weekend Cocktail
Berto’s Manhattan- Bullet Rye, Berto Vermouth, Grapefruit Bitters, Slap of Basil
M’tucci’s Moderno
14 oz. NY Strip - Traditional Italian Salsa Verde, Crispy Saltwater Potatoes, & Grilled Asparagus $36
Pan-Seared Rockfish- Roasted Artichoke, Braised Escarole, Mashed Potatoes, Caper Lemon Butter Sauce, & Smoked Prosciutto Powder $24
Sackett Farms Pork Piccata - Arugula, Tomatoes, Feta, Capers, Lemon Butter Sauce tossed with Spaghetti $19
Weekend Cocktail
Blueberry Spritz - Aperol, Pasubio Amaro, M’tucci’s Sparkling Wine, Cherry bitters
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five
12 oz. Veal Porterhouse - Grilled Broccolini, Whipped Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Smoked Blackberry bone Marrow Butter $37
Pan-Seared California White Sea Bass - Garlic Whipped Potatoes, Sautéed Arugula, Stem on Artichoke Hearts, Lemon Butter Caper Sauce $34
Calbrain Pork Shank Ragu - San Marzano Tomatoes, Red Bell, Carrots, Red Wine, Prosciutto and Calabrain Chile over House Made Pappardelle $19
Berry & Kiwi Shortcake - White Cake with Rosemary, Rum, Chantilly Cream, Berry Chutney and Fresh Fruit
Weekend Cocktail
The End of Summer - Effen Cucumber Vodka, Fresh Lime Juice, Simple Syrup, Chamoy & Tajin Rim
M’tucci’s Bar Roma
Pan-Seared Butterfish - Garlic Whipped Mashed Potatoes, Braised Arugula, Garlic, Pan-Seared Artichoke Hearts, Lemon Caper Butter Sauce $39
14 oz Bone-In Ribeye - Herb Dusted Smashed Salt Water Potatoes, Grilled Asparagus, Pancetta & Chanterelle Mushroom Au Poivre $39
Duck Pate - Citrus Dressed Cucumber & Arugula Salad, Butter Toasted Almonds $7
Weekend Cocktail
Gotta Lotta Mint - Espolon Tequila, Cassis, Simple Syrup, Fresh Lime Juice, Mint
Live Music for September
M’tucci’s Bar Roma - Wed 6:30-8:30. Sunday noon-2pm
9/11 Shane Wallin
9/14 Sloan Armitage
9/18 Amy Faithe
9/21 Chessa Peak
9/25 John Martinez
M’tucci’s Twenty-Five - Thursday 6:30-8:30 * Friday 7:30-9:30
9/9 Alex Maryol
9/15 Melissa Rios
9/16 RJ Perez
9/22 Amy Faithe
9/23 Lani Nash
9/29 Chessa Peak
9/30 Jacob Chavez
M’tucci’s Moderno - Thursday 6:30-830 *Friday 7:30-9:30
9/9 Russel Ash
9/15 Shane Wallin
9/16 Cali Shaw
9/22 Melissa Rios
9/23 Alex Maryol
9/29 Austin Van
9/30 Paul Hunton
Thanks for reading. See you next Friday. Ciao!
